“The best way to get to heaven is to take it with you” Henry Drummond
Mandarin Oriental Dhara Dhevi Chiang Mai Thailand.
It is early evening at the Dhara Dhevi in Chiang Mai Thailand; a pink mist rises and hovers halo-like above the burnished pagodas, the only sound is the gentle lapping of water and the soothing tinkling of brass chimes in the breeze.
My husband and I sit on our vast colonial veranda savouring the silence, whilst sipping a crisp New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. We have quickly settled into our spacious two-roomed suite, complete with enormous bathroom, guest bathroom, and sitting room. Although Thailand was never colonised, the suites are a fine reflection of European influences in Thailand. Recalling the grandeur of a by-gone era, the rooms are a treasure trove of Asian collectables, with high ceilings, sumptuous furnishing, and immaculate teak and polished Sino-Portuguese tiles, sourced from Burma.
Dhara Dhevi, Sanskrit for Star Goddess, is a lavish private compound meticulously constructed in inspiration of a historical Lanna Kingdom, set on 60 acres hidden away in the heartland of Northern Thailand.
We entered the compound by way of a chauffeur driven limousine, once in sight of the Palace gates; we transferred to a golf cart as no vehicles are allowed inside the compound. Transfer is by way of golf cart, traditional horse and buggy or bicycle. Heavy wooden drawbridges traditionally herald the approach of visitors.
Transported suddenly from the hustle and bustle of downtown Chiang Mai, we entered an ancient world. A world reminiscent of old Siam, a stage set for The King and I. Soaring mature trees line a cobbled avenue, flanked on either side by antique pavilions, Thai temples, and a ceremonial village green complete with ancient art instillations.
Ahead are the magnificent marble steps leading to a towering open-air pavilion and lobby, filled with Orientalia collected from all corners of Asia; Burma, Cambodia, China, Vietnam, and Thailand.
Like children, we spent the afternoon we arrived, exploring the vast grounds by bicycle. The Palace is enclosed by ponds, working rice paddies with water buffalo, lakes, ancient brick walls, amphitheatres, yoga pavilions, flanked by elephant, and warrior statues, surrounded on all sides by dense jungle. It is like an Asian Disneyland for grownups, but having said that everything you see is in fact authentic.
The choice of accommodation within the resort is as eclectic as the rare antique collection housed within. Traditional wooden rice barns, and stand alone teakwood villas overlook the fertile rice paddies, complete with, plunge pools or outdoor Jacuzzi, Salas or lap pools, they are erected in privately serene clusters and bordered by luxurious gardens.
After drinks in the ultra chic and seductively lit Horn Bar, named after the multitude of horned ornamental masks lining the walls, we were escorted along with our friends to dinner at the Fujian Restaurant.
The finest of Chinese cuisine is served in the Fujian, a delightful lacquer box, styled after a 1930’s Shanghai mansion. We made our way to the restaurant on foot, by way of a cobbled winding alley, surrounded by a wooden shuttered shopping village, brimming with handmade treasures. The seafood dishes and Peking duck pancakes were delicious as was the wine, served in handcrafted blown glass.
We fell asleep that evening with the gentle ringing of brass wind chimes and woke the following morning to the laughter of children and birdsong.
After a sumptuous breakfast on our patio, featuring fresh tropical fruit, and homemade yoghurt topped with fresh honeycomb, we walked through the palace grounds to the Dheva Spa and Holistic centre.
The Dheva Spa is the jewel in the crown of the resort, meticulously reincarnated from an ancient Burmese Palace. With its majestic teak roof climbing the seven steps to Nirvana, and the mythical titanic proportions of the catfish that inhabit the ponds surrounding the entrance, the spa offers one a fortunate entrée into the legendary and historical holistic treatments of South East Asia.
I had long been fascinated by the Ayurvedic treatment called Shirodhara, more commonly known as the Third Eye treatment of Lord Shiva. The treatment, makes the lofty claims of being able to calm the mind and body, rebalance the nervous system, improving the functions of the five senses, curing insomnia, anxiety, depression, and fatigue to name but a few.
Who would not be intrigued, but it does have a dark side so I have read with interest. It also claims to uncover forgotten memories, enlighten, and rid you of your negativity what did I have to lose? We admired the beautiful interiors as we wound our way through a subterranean network of treatment rooms.
After tea and a relaxing foot massage, we changed and proceeded to the couple’s treatment room. My husband had opted for a body scrub and massage, after warning him not to embarrass me by falling asleep and snoring.
Once on my treatment table I forgot all about him. My eyes were covered by squares of linen as the holistic therapist commenced the rhythmic pouring of medicated oil. The oil pours continuously onto your third eye in seductively hypnotic sway, resulting in a sense of deep relaxation and sense of well-being. My anxious mind was stilled. I felt serenely peaceful, calm, and within reach of the legendary Nirvana.
A blissful head and shoulder massage followed the treatment, which lasted for 60 minutes. Afterwards, my hair was wrapped in a linen towel, and I was instructed to leave the nourishing oil in my hair for as long as I could, and avoid any stimulants, such as caffeine or alcohol.
I left the man I arrived with there on the table, what was his name? And floated out of the Palace past the giant catfish and promptly lost my way back to my room.
My blissful state continued throughout dinner at the Grand Lanna Thai restaurant, as I sat mesmerised by the calm hand movements, and seductive dance steps of the beautiful Thai dance troupe. That evening, I slept for the first time in ages, like a baby.
The Mandarin Oriental Dhara Dhevi really is a magical resort, set in lavish opulence it offers something for everyone. Children find the grounds fascinating, with so much to explore, bicycles and horse and buggy rides, a kids club and activities geared to all ages. With many restaurants and two pools catering to their needs, the colonial and the kid’s favourite, Loy Kham overlooking the rice paddies. The Loy Kham pool has coconut palms jutting out over the water, a magnet for the kiddies to sit and jump from into the water.
The adults and honeymooners are well catered for, with many stylish bars and restaurants, shopping arcades, and the authentic Kad Dhara shopping village, demonstrating unique artisan skills and handmade crafts. Conducted art tours and yoga, conducted in a historical yoga pavilion is available daily. The Jum Sri Hall Library houses a wide selection of books and collection of journals, magazines, and newspapers. The atmosphere is inviting, teak lined floors with a nook to relax and have a cup of tea and biscuits.
Staying at the Dhara Dhevi really is a path to heaven, throughout our stay we were treated like royalty, we left relaxed, well fed, and enlightened, and leaving as one should, already on our way back!
“The journey is the reward” Taoist proverb
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